---
node: muromachi
type: period
slug: muromachi_period
title: "Muromachi period"
lead: "In the Muromachi period the kosode became the principal garment for every class, while the obi was still only a narrow sash, and Ashikaga patronage produced the lavish silk costumes of Noh theatre."
published: 2026-07-27
updated: 2026-07-27
---

## Overview

The small-sleeved kosode, once underwear, was now the main outer robe for men and women alike. Men added the kataginu and hakama that would harden into the later kamishimo, and the sash tying the kosode remained thin.

## Key garments and style

Under the Ashikaga shoguns the arts flourished, and Noh drama developed its own splendid costume (nogaku shozoku) in gold-brocaded karaori and other rich silks. The restrained taste of the tea ceremony also began to shape ideas of elegance.

## Transition

The brief, opulent Azuchi–Momoyama age that followed pushed kosode decoration to new heights.